PIAZZA BY ANTHONY - FEATURED IN JULY'S BBC OLIVE MAGAZINE

That Michelin have yet to garland 29-year-old chef Anthony Flinn’s restaurant, Anthony’s (three courses, £42), with a star, continues to bemuse many fans. But Flinn isn’t fazed. Business first, baubles second, seems to be the motto of a man who has set about colonising the Leeds casual dining scene with vigour.

In just a few years, he’s followed up his flagship with Anthony’s at Flannels: Anthony’s Patisserie and, last November, Piazza by Anthony, in Leeds’s iconic Victorian Corn Exchange. On the ground floor Flinn has opened a bar, café, private dining facilities, several food shops, including a delicatessen and bakery, and a 125-seat centrepiece brasserie. It’s a slick, attractive space: the circular dining room cleverly subdivided by low, curving walls, with the Exchange’s domed roof soaring several storeys above.

The food is as good as you’d expect. On a recent Olive visit, a platter of first-rate cured meats, cheeses, celeriac remoulade, kalamata olives and artichoke hearts was a steal at £7.95, while an elegant dish of pork chop with gravy, fondant potato and tiny, roasted apples did justice to the owner’s pedigree. The all day menu runs from asparagus salad (£5.25) to milk-poached smoked haddock with crushed new potatoes and roasted spring onions (£11.50)

Corn Exchange, Leeds (01132470995; anthonysrestaurant.co.uk)

·         Starters from £4.85; mains from £8.75; wine from £13.95.

£15 buys you – Chilled gazpacho with picadillo (4.95), followed by salmon with wilted red chard and spiced yellow lentils (£8.50)